Cartier International SNC was founded in 1847 by French businessman, jeweler, and watchmaker Louis-François Cartier in Paris. The founder’s grandson, Louis Cartier, designed the now-famous Cartier Tank in 1919 that was inspired by thanks used in World War I.
Movements and Change of Ownership
Shortly after, Cartier formed a joint-stock company with Edward Jaeger of Jaeger-LeCoultre to exclusively manufacture movements for Cartier. Cartier has also used movements by Audemars Piguet, Movado, and Vacheron Constantin. The company was owned and run by the Cartier family until 1964 and is now owned by the Richemont Group, which also owns Vacheron Constantin, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Panerai, Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC Schaffhausen, and A. Lange & Söhne. Italian luxury brand Montegrappa was also owned by Richemont from 2001 to 2005.
Ferrari Formula
In a bid to combat unauthorized watches, Scuderia Ferrari founder Enzo Ferrari launched the Ferrari Formula collection with Cartier on April 15, 1983 in Maranello. On the Cartier side of the deal was Alain Dominique Perrin, the Chariman of Cartier International at the time and known for developing the “Les Must de Cartier” collection. An announcement from issue #140 of Europa Star Europe in 1983 detailed that the line would be sold by distributors of the Cartier group, but not by exclusive Cartier boutiques.
Cartier Ferrari Formula watches were a clear nod to the Scuderia Ferrari Formula 1 team, without outright use of the Formula 1 branding. With a few exceptions, most were powered by Seiko quartz movements and featured an asymmetrical strap/bracelet design that was a common distinctive characteristic of the sub-brand.
Ferrari Formula print ads were appearing in magazines by the start of 1984 and continued to appear as late as 1990, with one such example on page 27 of Prix Editions Magazine (Vol. 4 No. 3) from May of 1990.
Longines, which had been a sponsor the Ferrari team since 1980 and had just agreed to a new extension in 1983, also had Ferrari-themed print ads in magazines throughout the same time period. There have been instances when both have appeared within the same publication, such as issues number 93, 95, and 96 of Grand Prix International magazine (1985).
Perhaps somewhat ironically, as well as a testament to the line’s immediate popularity, counterfeit Ferrari Formula watches have been reported as early as 1985.
Unconfirmed Theories
According to an article by Time+Tide, Ferrari Formula timepieces were likely manufactured by Baume & Mercier. The arrangement is reasonably likely, given that the brand has previously been acquired by the Cartier Group in 1988. A 1989 report in issue #176 of Europa Star Europe also lists Baume & Mercier in the list of brands that have contributed to the Cartier Group’s 1988 sales figures.
In what appears to be a comment left by Swiss designer Claude Emmenegger on a Quill & Pad article, Longines was responsible for the product development, production, and some design. As an official sponsor of Scuderia Ferrari team from 1980 to 1989, Longines has notably only released co-branded Ferrari pieces from 1980 until 1983, the same year the Ferrari Formula deal was made.
Custom Cartier Chronograph for Pope John Paul II
One example of note was a piece unique chronograph with day/date and moon phase complications, and was a gift for Pope John Paul II during a 1988 visit to the Ferrari factory. Enzo Ferrari was unable to be present due to health issues and died just two months later, with the Cartier-Ferrari partnership ending shortly after.
Ferrari by Cartier Tank
A number of Ferrari-branded Cartier Tank models were also produced at some point. Details are not well documented, with records being largely limited to various auction and sales listings that date them as being from the 1990s.
Cartier Roadster Emerson Fittipaldi
The Cartier Roadster “Emerson Fittipaldi” Yellow Gold Automatic (ref. W62009V2) was released in 2006. The dial design has visual similarities to Emerson Fittipaldi‘s helmet design, and the case back features an engraving of the the 1972 and 1974 Formula 1 World Champion’s signature.
A reference number of 2524 has also appeared on listings.
Related Pages
References
https://quillandpad.com/2021/05/24/history-of-ferrari-watches-the-unlikely-story-behind-the-cartier-formula-ferrari/
https://revolutionwatch.com/ferrari-watches-the-early-years/
https://www.autoweek.com/car-life/a1973631/prancing-horses-and-sweeping-hands-history-ferrari-watch/
https://www.classicdriver.com/en/watch/cartier/1970/426717
https://watchlibrary.org/en/details/ES-EUROPE_140_1983_004_85
https://timeandtidewatches.com/ferrari-watch-collaborations/
https://www.baume-et-mercier.com/en/the-maison/history.html
https://watchlibrary.org/en/details/FH-REVUE_1988-05-05_09_34
https://watchlibrary.org/en/details/ES-EUROPE_176_1989_004_26
https://www.chrono24.com/cartier/cartier-rare-ferrari-must-de-cartier-tank-collaboration–id42883736.htm
https://www.barnebys.com/auctions/lot/ferrari-formula-no-reserve-price-women-1990-1999-u6vqZXY-624138605
https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Ferrari-Formula-by-Cartier-Women-1980-1989/49273815-ferrari_formula-24.6.21-catawiki
https://www.bodnarsauction.com/auction/234-estate-treasures-antiques/lot-155-ferrari-by/
https://vintage-shop.it/archivio/14800–Ferrari-2625-OROLOGIO-POLSO-anni-80-VINTAGE-WRIST-WATCH-montre-ROSSO-ORO-Swiss
https://www.instagram.com/p/DKSJ89TNHnj/
https://watchlibrary.org/en/details/FH-REVUE_1985-06-27_13_3